Search Results For : intercultural

It’s time I broke the silence…

And why?

Because some things are worth sharing no matter how busy I am (and how lazy I am to get on the computer when I have free time):

1) Subsequent to years spent in the ad industry in Vienna, I have witnessed my fair share of photo shoots – from highly complex ones with models and photographers with true artistry to those who could offer a more reasonable price from across the border (Hungary) but still did a very clean job. When recently at work we needed some original model photography for an artwork insert (one that goes between a double-wall mug), I suggested we do use some of the beautiful ladies from the office. My colleague found a photo studio that showed some great examples of vintage Shanghai (1930’s) – the look we were going for – and off we were! We booked the studio about two days before the shoot. The scheduled time for 3 ‘models’ was 3 hours.  In my world, this was just not possible. A photo shoot with 1 model normally takes a full day. You have to worry about light settings, hair, makeup, clothing, etc… I was still in shock over the time when they said they would use different photographers to save time…again, not my world. Normally, one photographer’s style affects the result and so we would have 3 different styles which is not what we wanted. This was all sounding very suspicious, but my what-I-thought-already-pretty-Chinese-adapted-jaw finally dropped, when they said they would deliver the digital photography in already photoshoped quality the next morning at 10am! My world: one or two days of work depending on the number of photographs needed to retouch.  I wrote my boss a note saying I was going to be there to supervise, but that he shouldn’t expect any results by the next day.  Impossible is nothing, Possible is everything. I arrived at the studio to see a Chinese production line run and managed with the utmost efficiency (putting our Austrian studios to shame). A line of mirrors with a line of girls in front sitting on chairs behind which another line of girls would perform make-up and hair miracles within minutes. The wardrobe, shoes, jewelry – all within grasp. Poof – you were a shanghainese woman from the 20’s. Poof you were a bride, poof you were a pregnant hot chick, poof you were a cowgirl (these were only the examples I saw during 2 hours). In and out the ladies moved from makeup chair to studio (where, mind you, the client was not allowed, as to allow for full efficiency!) and back again for their second costume change. We started at 3pm and finished by 6pm. My jaw officially on the ground. The next morning, with a slight delay, the CD was delivered – with photography that looked too perfect and glammed up in my view, but absolutely served the purpose for our project. The whole thing cost Eur 40/model. Need I say more?

2) Everyone likes trees. So the Shanghai government offers city dwellers, companies with CSR programs, team-building groups, etc etc the opportunity to plant trees in the outer districts of the city for free. All the trees, plants, bushes are provided by the government. Or you can pay Eur3/tree and have it planted for you. My company opted to do it as a company outing this past Saturday morning. We took a 40-minute bus ride (probably killing trees with our exhaust along the way) to a new road only to find many others groups of all ages gathered to plant trees. In true Chinese style, we left the bus and everyone just picked up the first shovels they saw and shouted ‘let’s start!’ The trees and bushes to be planted were spaced out along the road so you could somewhat identify where the tree was supposed to be planted – I say ‘somewhat.’  (I did notice areas of softer earth, which I later found out were pre-dug by the government workers the day before!) Without a word of instruction, everyone started planting away. The government workers just stood on and watched (probably wondering why the hell we were doing this and causing them extra work, as they would probably have to replant them after we are gone). Connie and I managed to get our first tree planted when I asked the wife of my American supervisor, Ramela, if she had done this before. Yes, many times. Did you get instruction? In answer to this, she proceeds to tell me about the way they were told to plant trees when she did in the US – right down to 3 kinds of fertilizer, etc. It was at this point, I looked at the tree I just planted in what was more rock debris than soil – I looked at the plastic bag and wire I had dug out of the ground in the process – and I asked her if my tree would grow. “Sure,” she said, “This is China. It’ll survive.”

Xmas in China is yet another example of how all the ‘bad’ of a meaningful (Western) holiday can be exported like a commodity and planted into a completely foreign place where it is impossible for the people to understand anything about it. Sorry to start out so negative, but Patrick and I spent the greater part of yesterday shopping, and with every dancing Santa, every blinking Christmas tree, we thought…what is wrong with this picture?!? I called a modern Chinese restaurant to make a reservation for December 24th for a bunch of friends who are in town over the holidays, and I heard “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas” in the background. Yes, we are Shanghai. Yes, it is international. Yes, there are Christians living here. But it still makes no sense – all the lights and attraction that this season gets criticized in the West, right here in the East. If you interview a European on that subject, they will grunt and complain about commercialization, globalization and local traditions getting wiped out. But here – I am not sure if folks think about the implications.

Since work has picked up, and I have am in more of a work-home routine than I would like, I noticed that I have not been able to reflect on my experiences here as much as I used to. I wondered if that is because I am getting accustomed to life here and thus not as sensorally aware, or if I just am too tired for analyzation. Maybe both. But I have decided to make a list and so expect a longer entry hopefully soon!

Helen, my colleague sent us this great explanation of the Mid-Autumn Festival – which happened at the end of September. 

The joyous Mid-Autumn Festival was celebrated on the fifteenth day of the eighth moon, around the time of the autumn equinox. Many referred to it simply as the “Fifteenth of the Eighth Moon”.

This day was also considered as a harvest festival since fruits, vegetables and grain had been harvested by this time and food was abundant. Food offerings were placed on an altar set up in the courtyard. Apples, pears, peaches, grapes, pomegranates, melons, oranges and pomelos might be seen. Special foods for the festival included moon cakes, cooked taro and water caltrope, a type of water chestnut resembling black buffalo horns. Some people insisted that cooked taro be included because at the time of creation, taro was the first food discovered at night in the moonlight. Of all these foods, it could not be omitted from the Mid-Autumn Festival.

The round moon cakes, measuring about three inches in diameter and one and a half inches in thickness, resembled Western fruitcakes in taste and consistency. These cakes were made with melon seeds, lotus seeds, almonds, minced meats, bean paste, orange peels and lard. A golden yolk from a salted duck egg was placed at the center of each cake, and the golden brown crust was decorated with symbols of the festival. Traditionally, thirteen moon cakes were piled in a pyramid to symbolize the thirteen moons of a “complete year,” that is, twelve moons plus one intercalary moon.

The Mid-Autumn Festival is a traditional festivity for both the Han and minority nationalities. The custom of worshipping the moon can be traced back as far as the ancient Xia and Shang Dynasties (2000 B.C.-1066 B.C.). In the Zhou Dynasty(1066 B.C.-221 B.C.), people hold ceremonies to greet winter and worship the moon whenever the Mid-Autumn Festival sets in. It becomes very prevalent in the Tang Dynasty(618-907 A.D.) that people enjoy and worship the full moon. In the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279 A.D.), however, people send round moon cakes to their relatives as gifts in expression of their best wishes of family reunion. When it becomes dark, they look up at the full silver moon or go sightseeing on lakes to celebrate the festival. Since the Ming (1368-1644 A.D. ) and Qing Dynasties (1644-1911A.D.), the custom of Mid-Autumn Festival celebration becomes unprecedented popular. Together with the celebration there appear some special customs in different parts of the country, such as burning incense, planting Mid-Autumn trees, lighting lanterns on towers and fire dragon dances. However, the custom of playing under the moon is not so popular as it used to be nowadays, but it is not less popular to enjoy the bright silver moon. Whenever the festival sets in, people will look up at the full silver moon, drinking wine to celebrate their happy life or thinking of their relatives and friends far from home, and extending all of their best wishes to them.

Moon Cakes

There is this story about the moon-cake. during the Yuan dynasty (A.D. 1280-1368) China was ruled by the Mongolian people. Leaders from the preceding Sung dynasty (A.D. 960-1280) were unhappy at submitting to the foreign rule, and set how to coordinate the rebellion without being discovered. The leaders of the rebellion, knowing that the Moon Festival was drawing near, ordered the making of special cakes. Backed into each moon cake was a message with the outline of the attack. On the night of the Moon Festival, the rebels successfully attached and overthrew the government. Today, moon cakes are eaten to commemorate this legend and was called the Moon Cake.

For generations, moon cakes have been made with sweet fillings of nuts, mashed red beans, lotus-seed paste or Chinese dates, wrapped in a pastry. Sometimes a cooked egg yolk can be found in the middle of the rich tasting dessert. People compare moon cakes to the plum pudding and fruit cakes which are served in the English holiday seasons.

Nowadays, there are hundreds varieties of moon cakes on sale a month before the arrival of Moon Festival.

October 12, 4:30pm. Airplane somewhere between Tokyo and Shanghai.

Looking out my window at the clouds below, I am trying to collect my thoughts for this entry. I am returning from my first business trip for PMI – four days in Tokyo. Before we moved to Asia, cities like Shanghai or Tokyo were mystical metropolises, their existence felt only through scenes in films and news reports about economic booms and crashes respectively. I would never have imagined that one day I would be presenting to an audience of Japanese businessmen accompanied by my Chinese boss and Japanese distribution partner. How would I be received? What if I would say something wrong? In order to sell, one has to understand how to tap the needs of the counterpart, but the Japanese are even more opaque than the Chinese – smiling, polite, and gracious regardless of age, gender, status, situation. On the way there, I asked my boss what I should do, and he responded that I best put on my “lamb face,” which then became our inside joke for the rest of the trip. Not too aggressive, outspoken or direct. In the art of being indirect (and I am really starting to believe this is an art form), I am still a novice. During a dinner invitation with our distributor, we were asked if we could eat horse meat. I reacted with a hasty “no!” and firm shake of my head. I saw my boss looking at me, and I immediately understood my reaction was too “Western.” I asked him if I should have declined more kindly, such as thank-you-but-I-do-not-eat-horse-meat-etc-etc. And he said better yet would have been, “I really enjoy eating fish and vegetables.” Lesson 2: instead of contradiction, add phrases like “probably (not), maybe (not), I am not so sure, I do not think so…” – I have experienced this done in China as well, so I believe I have reached decent proficiency (at least in interpreting).

Other impressions in stream of consciousness (due to lack of ability to write comprehensive story at current time): lights, high-tech everything, dark suits, women with make-up, brightly-colored tights, warm toilet seats, sparkling white garbage trucks, taxi drivers with suits and gloves, bowing with arms planted at sides, adding “san” at the end of a name to show respect, long procedure of exchanging business cards, most tender sushi, rice balls, oolong tea, subway maps that look like something out of “Matrix,” boots, sake, tempura, Japanese breakfast, offices with workers packed in like sardines, seating in an office (long rows of connecting desks per department with the supervisor at a separate desk at a 90 degree to the others), smoking everywhere, expensive stores and restaurants, insanely long and tedious negotiations, relationship-building, details, clean streets, brightly marked crosswalks, coffee chains at every corner, aesthetics, beautiful packaging for everything, old women with PDAs, kimonos, sense of tradition, island culture.Tokyo is a place I probably could keep coming back to and never get tired of. I am fascinated by the people and the culture. So much so that Patrick and I are planning on celebrating New Year’s seeing other parts of Japan with my cousin Ece, who is teaching English in a small village there.

Wir waren gestern mit Freunden (waren mit einer Gruppe von insg. 13 Leuten unterwegs) am Fischmarkt (angeblich der beste in Shanghai).

Ein Erlebnis der etwas anderen Art.

Nachdem wir ein paar Köstlichkeiten in den Tanks und Käfigen begutachten konnten, ist sie recht bald mit den anderen in eines der (mehr oder weniger sauberen) Restaurants in der Nähe gegangen, um einen Tisch zu reservieren [Regel No. 1: schau NIEMALS in die Küche – zumindest nicht vor dem Essen – sonst bleibst nicht allzu lange dort].

[Der Ablauf hier: du kaufst Meeresfrüchte, Fisch oder was auch immer am Markt zu finden ist, nimmst alles mit ins Restaurant (lebend natürlich), sagst dem Kellner, was du wie zubereitet haben möchtest, bestellst zusätzlich Beilagen und Getränke und genießt nach Herzenslust und -Laune. Regel No. 2: für solche Events nimmst am besten immer Seife, Desinfektionsmittel (für Stäbchen und Teller) bzw. eigenes Besteck mit – mit Servietten abwischen reicht nicht.]

Zurück zum Markt. Nachdem Burcu und die anderen das Weite gesucht haben, bin ich mit einem Freund (Kanadier mit chines. Vorfahren) noch eine wenig länger durch die Hallen und Gasserl gebummelt. Man kann sich nicht vorstellen, wie es hier abgeht. Draußen auf der Strasse sieht man schon einiges. Aber hier ist’s echt a Wahnsinn (ich kann mir nicht vorstellen, dass sich hierher schon allzu viele Ausländer wagten). Die absolute Härte! Überall Schlamm, Kadaver von verendeten Fischen, tote Schildkröten * Schlangen, geschlachtete Frösche, und das Ganze aufgemischt mit zerteilten Krebsen und allerlei Eingeweide. Dazwischen 1000ende Händler, Passanten und sonstige zwielichtige Leute. Was für ein China-Erlebnis. Zu allem Überdruss sind wir dann noch beide auf toten Kröten ausgerutscht! Vergiss Bananen! Frösche sind sicherlich doppelt so rutschig.

Danach zurück ins Restaurant – einige der Locals in der Gruppe haben zwischenzeitlich unsere Fische gekauft (ich durfte nicht dabei sein, da es sonst für alle ein bisschen teurer gewesen wäre) – und ab zum Festschmaus…

Später ging’s etwas überfressen und ziemlich nach Fisch stinkend in ein Lokal und zum Abschluss noch in eine Disco. War ein netter Abend…

Mahlzeit.