Among the many associations Westerners have of China, vast, pristine nature is usually not one of them. It wasn’t one of mine – but I quickly discovered the endless offering of China’s natural wonders. It’s only logical that a country of this size is home to some of the most awesome landscapes in the world. We had the privilege of visiting some of these on a recent trip to the southern provinceof Yunnanat the end of April/early May. The images are in the slide show – please take note of the highlights Tiger Leaping Gorge and Lugu Lake(a bumpy 7-hour bus ride in the direction of the Sichuanborder).
As China opens its doors to more and more foreigners and the Chinese themselves have more disposable income to spend on discovering their own country, the designated tourist sites (UNESCO Heritage Sites and others) are becoming even more overrun with curious visitors. For us, the key to touring China and enjoying its sites has been figuring out how to escape the crowds. Some of this depends on timing (which season, which day of the week, which hour of the day) and some depends on accessibility (those areas out of reach are usually goldmines). We apparently got it right at the Tiger Leaping Gorge and Lugu Lake. The hikes at both places were some of the most peaceful I have experienced in China. In fact, if anyone reading this happens to visit the Gorge, I would not only recommend taking the “high trail”- but also to keep going as long as time allows. We had to turn around after 2 days, but ideally we would have kept hiking all the way to Shangri-La on the Tibetan border.
Using the quaint ancient town of Lijiang as our home base, Isilsu, Patrick and I had an amazing 9 days discovering this corner of a province that has so much to offer, including the most concentration of China’s ethnic minorities. We decided to maximize the time at our top destination choices, spontaneously cutting out a few stops on our itinerary (for example the “must-see” Jade Snow Mountain). Even with rain pursuing us at every turn, we were lucky to enjoy several sunny days. The food in this region leaves something to be desired, but the people are incredibly friendly and warm. Often we were invited into their homes to enjoy meals consisting of pig lard and a variety of fried vegetables (the meat is cured for several years and trimmed off a carcass that usually shares the sleeping/eating quarters with the family).
As the world of nature’s wonders has opened at our feet, we are now considering the possibilities for our next trip at the beginning of August with our dear friends Berni and Karin. Should we venture to the Sichuan mountaintops (only those areas that were not affected by the earthquake) or head south to the tropical part of Yunnan that borders on Thailand and Laos? Or should we go West to the northern Xinjiang province to see the China even most Chinese are not familiar with? To be continued…
It’s time I broke the silence…
And why?
Because some things are worth sharing no matter how busy I am (and how lazy I am to get on the computer when I have free time):
1) Subsequent to years spent in the ad industry in Vienna, I have witnessed my fair share of photo shoots – from highly complex ones with models and photographers with true artistry to those who could offer a more reasonable price from across the border (Hungary) but still did a very clean job. When recently at work we needed some original model photography for an artwork insert (one that goes between a double-wall mug), I suggested we do use some of the beautiful ladies from the office. My colleague found a photo studio that showed some great examples of vintage Shanghai (1930’s) – the look we were going for – and off we were! We booked the studio about two days before the shoot. The scheduled time for 3 ‘models’ was 3 hours. In my world, this was just not possible. A photo shoot with 1 model normally takes a full day. You have to worry about light settings, hair, makeup, clothing, etc… I was still in shock over the time when they said they would use different photographers to save time…again, not my world. Normally, one photographer’s style affects the result and so we would have 3 different styles which is not what we wanted. This was all sounding very suspicious, but my what-I-thought-already-pretty-Chinese-adapted-jaw finally dropped, when they said they would deliver the digital photography in already photoshoped quality the next morning at 10am! My world: one or two days of work depending on the number of photographs needed to retouch. I wrote my boss a note saying I was going to be there to supervise, but that he shouldn’t expect any results by the next day. Impossible is nothing, Possible is everything. I arrived at the studio to see a Chinese production line run and managed with the utmost efficiency (putting our Austrian studios to shame). A line of mirrors with a line of girls in front sitting on chairs behind which another line of girls would perform make-up and hair miracles within minutes. The wardrobe, shoes, jewelry – all within grasp. Poof – you were a shanghainese woman from the 20’s. Poof you were a bride, poof you were a pregnant hot chick, poof you were a cowgirl (these were only the examples I saw during 2 hours). In and out the ladies moved from makeup chair to studio (where, mind you, the client was not allowed, as to allow for full efficiency!) and back again for their second costume change. We started at 3pm and finished by 6pm. My jaw officially on the ground. The next morning, with a slight delay, the CD was delivered – with photography that looked too perfect and glammed up in my view, but absolutely served the purpose for our project. The whole thing cost Eur 40/model. Need I say more?
2) Everyone likes trees. So the Shanghai government offers city dwellers, companies with CSR programs, team-building groups, etc etc the opportunity to plant trees in the outer districts of the city for free. All the trees, plants, bushes are provided by the government. Or you can pay Eur3/tree and have it planted for you. My company opted to do it as a company outing this past Saturday morning. We took a 40-minute bus ride (probably killing trees with our exhaust along the way) to a new road only to find many others groups of all ages gathered to plant trees. In true Chinese style, we left the bus and everyone just picked up the first shovels they saw and shouted ‘let’s start!’ The trees and bushes to be planted were spaced out along the road so you could somewhat identify where the tree was supposed to be planted – I say ‘somewhat.’ (I did notice areas of softer earth, which I later found out were pre-dug by the government workers the day before!) Without a word of instruction, everyone started planting away. The government workers just stood on and watched (probably wondering why the hell we were doing this and causing them extra work, as they would probably have to replant them after we are gone). Connie and I managed to get our first tree planted when I asked the wife of my American supervisor, Ramela, if she had done this before. Yes, many times. Did you get instruction? In answer to this, she proceeds to tell me about the way they were told to plant trees when she did in the US – right down to 3 kinds of fertilizer, etc. It was at this point, I looked at the tree I just planted in what was more rock debris than soil – I looked at the plastic bag and wire I had dug out of the ground in the process – and I asked her if my tree would grow. “Sure,” she said, “This is China. It’ll survive.”
No countdown, no fireworks, no party hats and stringers, no loud drunken crowd, no pushing and shoving, no dancing, no popping corks. Instead…masses of calm, smiling Japanese waiting at the gates of a Kyoto temple, ringing shrine bells, burning rope ends lit by lantern flames, sake served by monks, wishing wells, Buddhas, prayers on paper, fortunes in boxes, good luck charms in every size and shape, food stalls serving sausages, fish cakes, glutinous rice treats (mochi). This is the new New Year’s experience that only Japan can offer.
Japan and the Japanese people continue to amaze me with their impeccable service, delicate presentation, attention to detail, eye for aesthetics, loyalty to customs, helpfulness, diligence, and overall conscientious manner. Going back to Japan, I was excited to discover more of the country and hoped that Patrick would find it as fascinating as I.
Dec 28. My cousin Ece, who has been living in a smaller city called Tsu for over a year, was waiting to greet us at Narita airport with open arms and a wide smile. We took the subway into rainy Tokyo for 1,5 hours only to get lost trying to reach our hotel. Finally, at 2am we could rest our heads on our pillows for a few hours before waking up to head to the Tsukiji fish market, an experience that one should not miss in Tokyo.
Dec 29. I hear you have to be at the fish market at the crack of dawn to get a peak at the wholesalers auction that takes place just as all the fish is hauled off the boats. Although we missed that, our sleepy trio did get a feel of the early morning market buzz as small motorized trolleys zipped by, large slabs of tuna were carried by 4+ men, many came to buy the freshest fish, and trucks for loaded up for the day’s deliveries. We crossed to the other side of the street to join the morning crowd at a sushi breakfast, only to find out the most expensive sushi goes unappreciated by our ignorant taste buds. We went sushi-hopping till we were high on fresh, raw fish.
We spent the rest of our first full day in Tokyo in Asakusa, an older district of Tokyo that has the most Edo flair. We went in and out of the Senso-ji temple and walked through the gardens, and all along the tourist-mobbed streets – even made a ceremonial stop at Starbucks – before heading to Shinjiku, skyscraper paradise. We went straight to Takashimaya department store to a popular lifestyle shop called Tokyu Hands. Judging by the masses of shoppers and lines, Japanese people are really into accessories for their mobile gadgets – little charms, stickers, covers, etc. Also they are fantastic at gift wrapping and paper products like cards, stationary, etc.
In the evening, we went to Sibuya (Lost in Translation crossing) to meet TJ and Ramela who had flown in from Shanghai that afternoon. Our group was complete. We found a great place to eat thanks to Ece – the type of restaurant is called izakaya. We literally ordered from a computerized screen that stood at the end of our table. A little taste of everything…ymmmm, so good.
We hit Sega game world after dinner to take the funniest instant photos with Ece and Ramela which we then could decorate and customize – while the guys played on the taiko drums. The evening stretched on into the morning hours, as some newly found Japanese friends took us to a private bar and afterwards we haggled our way into a very cool night club where we danced till dawn. (Funny cultural note here: although the five of us grew up in similar cultures, we noticed that the countries we currently live in have had a great impact on our behavior and expectations. The Chinese side was trying to bargain on all prices, cross streets on red, cross at any place – not necessarily at crosswalks, take taxis with 5 people.)
Dec 30. Train to Okawara. Bus to Hakone, a quaint mountain town known for its healing hot springs. We stayed at a ryokan (see slide show) that was the epitome of the Japanese experience. So we put on our yukatas, soaked in the springs, ate our many many small dishes of delicious ryokan food, slept on futons on tatami mats (made from bamboo), and felt completely and utterly relaxed.
Dec 31. Hike around Hakone area. Although we never got a clear view of Mt Fuji, we could breathe in that fresh air, take great pictures along the lake, and have udon noodles and soba beer before we headed back to Okawara and took our connecting train to Kyoto.
Jan 1-3. Kyoto offers all the temples and gardens one ever wanted to see and more. See slide show. There are no words to explain the serene beauty of some of the worlds we entered when going through the front gates of the temple grounds. From sunsets to Zen rock gardens, we took every opportunity to feel at one with the great spirits who granted us this awesome opportunity to be in this part of the world, doing what we are doing.
Xmas in China is yet another example of how all the ‘bad’ of a meaningful (Western) holiday can be exported like a commodity and planted into a completely foreign place where it is impossible for the people to understand anything about it. Sorry to start out so negative, but Patrick and I spent the greater part of yesterday shopping, and with every dancing Santa, every blinking Christmas tree, we thought…what is wrong with this picture?!? I called a modern Chinese restaurant to make a reservation for December 24th for a bunch of friends who are in town over the holidays, and I heard “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas” in the background. Yes, we are Shanghai. Yes, it is international. Yes, there are Christians living here. But it still makes no sense – all the lights and attraction that this season gets criticized in the West, right here in the East. If you interview a European on that subject, they will grunt and complain about commercialization, globalization and local traditions getting wiped out. But here – I am not sure if folks think about the implications.
Since work has picked up, and I have am in more of a work-home routine than I would like, I noticed that I have not been able to reflect on my experiences here as much as I used to. I wondered if that is because I am getting accustomed to life here and thus not as sensorally aware, or if I just am too tired for analyzation. Maybe both. But I have decided to make a list and so expect a longer entry hopefully soon!