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No words can describe the beauty of that dramatic, awe-inspiring mountain range. Unexpected but well worth it were the 8 hours on the bus (one-way) and the approximately 25 kilometers of elevated terrain we were ascending and descending all weekend. This trip was organized by Patrick’s segment, so that covered everyone from his Slovakian supervisor to the Chinese machine operator. It was a colorful mix of people and personalities, but we had a lot in common that weekend: the burning in our quads and the beauty of the peaks.

I wish time were not so constrained, and I could have captured my feelings directly after the trip. In hindsight, there are a few impressions worth mentioning:

– There is a real difference in mountain culture when hiking in different countries. Besides the obvious geological differences (in Austria, the mountains go up, reach a peak, and go down), there is something called mountain etiquette. In Austria as well as in the US and Canada, there are clear policies on littering as well as noise, respect the environment, etc. You may see a few groups of people on a hike, but never crowds. The attire is very sporty and casual – colors natural. Take a look at our photos in the slide show and you may be able to point out the differences. One thing is for sure: it was a lot more clean than Anji, but not because children didn’t throw their Coke bottles over the cliff while parents watched on, but because there was a large cleaning crew scanned the paths for trash throughout the day.

– There were so many people waiting for the gondola on Saturday morning that some of our group waited three hours to reach the top. In that time, we hiked. We were not prepared for neither the sleep incline nor the narrow paths often with no railing. In addition to avoiding all the climbers descending, we also had to be aware of the many small but sturdy, big-calved men carrying up to 90 kilos of hotel/restaurant supplies up the mountain. Respect. At one point, we were fairly tired and going slow, I noticed that one of the delivery men was just as fast as we were! I couldn’t help imagining their spines like in a sort of x-ray. I wondered about the kind of physical problems that would result from this kind of work. There are worse jobs in China, but this has to one of the toughest.

That is all time will allow for the moment. I hope I can soon also document my first few months at work and my daily commute to/from work!

All that anticipation. Of all the people we shall see, the places we shall go, the things we shall do. Now all laced in memory.

I have a terrible memory – I have to rely on friends to remind me of what happened in high school, college, and post-college respectively. My mother is also a good source. I am always amazed at older people who can remember specific conversations or detailed incidents from their distant past, as my grandmother did or Omi still does. They say it’s the short-term memory that becomes weaker. Well, I suppose I will lose both one day. But the feelings – the joy or sorrow, the excitement or anxiety, the anticipation or dread, will remain – prompted by hundreds of photographs and journal entries which the new digital age should protect for many years to come.

After two weeks of NY, North Carolina, and Philadelphia (in that order), Patrick and I touched down in Shanghai on Sunday afternoon, August 12th. The whole time it felt as though we should be returning to Austria. Shanghai is apparently not yet home. I actually found myself longing for my bed in Hernstorferstrasse 27/58. I turned to Patrick and said, “I could never do the 2-3 year expat routine in furnished housing.” I think I am “settled” enough now (nice way of saying “old”) to want some key items along for the ride: my own mattress, sofa, and  study desk/chair (I am adding these for Patrick’s sake).
Gone are the days that I could shift from one dormitory to the next, one flat to the next, without a moment’s hesitation!

The days, weeks in the US passed us by. I felt like I was in my own version of Four Weddings and a Funeral – only there were only two weddings, one funeral, and several new arrivals. The weddings were very merry, the couples well suited, and the celebrations worthy of our very special friends. The funeral was unexpected and tragic, a loss of a dear family friend at the age of 67 survived by his loyal son who had to fly in from overseas to not only mourn but also console his mother and take care of all necessary responsibilities. The arrivals refer to the children of my childhood friends, Deborah (who still has three months to go), Maggie, and Melissa. Life in both its pain and glory – throughout there was one common denominator though: LOVE.

In closing, I would like to thank someone I love dearly for making this vacation a dream come true (sorry, I have listened to one too many wedding toasts): my brother, Alpay. Those of you who don’t know him, you are missing one of the biggest hearts and greatest senses of humor humankind has to offer. He not only accompanied us on our tour of NY and NC, but he also drove endless hours for our sake, and took two precious days off work only to spend them doing what he loathes most: shopping. He took the place of our mother and father, whose shoes are not easy to fill. So I toast to you, Alpay, the best host in the tristate area and a new Philadelphian. I hope you enjoy your home and have many happy days there.

Sunday, July 22nd, 9am Eastern Shanghai Time, our shipment from Austria arrives at our new address.  All 92 boxes. As a six-man Chinese team looking more fragile than their Slovakian counterparts in Austria successfully unloads and unpacks everything from my grandmother’s Turkish antiques to our more “personal” items and stows them away most haphazardly, Patrick and I look on in excitement and bewilderment: pieces – small and large – of our home in Vienna are now in Shanghai! The feeling of comfort due to the amount of storage space available in our flat quickly dissipates as we see the amount of things overflowing out of each room! However, in a few days, we had organized everything to its appropriate place. We are now missing some drawers from the kitchen and bathrooms, and oh yes, living room furniture! The biggest setback, however, is that our dividing walls are too weak to hold the hanging pieces from our living room set (a shelving unit and a mirror). So we are really disappointed about that and are not sure how to resolve it.

In other news – a quick status report (I used to write those all the time for my clients –  I can’t seem to break the habit):
– I opened by own bank account. Easiest thing in the world. Take a number, wait in line, go up to counter with passport, and watch as the nice bank man, who even speaks a bit of English, handles the millions of papers that have to be printed and stamped by five people, type in password (own choice) about 10 times, and then say thank you when you are handed your fully functional ATM card. The cost: 10 yuan for administration for a year (that’s like 1 Euro) and 5 yuan for the card. It’s a steal!
– I bought a bike. I am free as a bird now cruising around my neighborhood, taking in the scenes of every day life, feeling like I belong…until I hit an intersection and have to swirl my head like an owl rotating 360 degrees to notice the many things on wheels moving in every which direction.  Yesterday, I literally had to stop and get off my bike in the middle of an intersection. I was completely stuck, which I am sure got a giggle or two from my fellow roadsters who never stop for anything. Now I just do as they do. I find a Chinese biker and follow. Blind faith. That is how I have decided to describe riding anything on the streets of Shanghai.
– I sent my first long distance parcel. This is no fun no matter what country you are in. At least here they package your items for you in pastel green boxes. Then you have to wait while others cut the line. When it finally your turn, you find out you have not filled out enough copies of the customs forms, so you have to wait again (or make others wait) as you do so. Then you pay an arm and a leg so that the parcel can be delivered within a week, and only an arm for a delivery within 20 days.
– I am on my second ayi (as Chinese household helpers are called here). The first lived a bit farther away and was not able to come as often as I wanted. The second seems really nice so far. The real problem here is the communication, although she makes a grand effort of reading my mind and my abstract hand gestures. So I think we will get along. I have yet to try her cooking, a service most ayis here provide for their clients.
– I am getting acquainted with the neighborhood. Everything seems to be very much within walking distance: international grocer, dry cleaner, tailor, post office, bank. Today I will be biking to the closest Carrefour (French hypermarket). I am curious how long/short that will take.

That’s it for now, folks. I hope I can write again before our trip to the US (flying on Sat Jul 28th).

We are back! Patrick and I had our first Mandarin lesson here in Shanghai last night, and I have to say, it was mildly odd seeing the same picture books from the 70’s and experience the same style of teaching half way across the world. Jo Ann, if you read this, I think you would have been proud of how much we remembered during our review. We could say many things about pencils, maps, cats, and trains. We were really excited when our instructor “Apple” said that they usually skip the Chapter 10, the most challenging grammar lesson, and pick it up again after Chapter 20! And over-achieving Patrick was very pleased when Apple said we would be able to finish the book during our 100 hours with her/Berlitz. We shall see. I will be very happy if I can communicate with taxi drivers and the cleaning lady. Those are my – maybe not glamorous – but very practical short-term goals!

ps- Anyone interested in learning Mandarin (or at least hearing it), should check out chinesepod.com – I am a free subscriber which means I can download podcasts, listen to them, and practice the intonation over and over… (when alone in the apartment which is most of the time! Just wait till I get an ipod in the US…then there is no stopping me).  I think the instruction is really very good!

http://www.smartshanghai.com/maps/smshmap_mapit500.swf?xvalue=752&yvalue=-1461

Shanghai is divided by the Huangpu River – our side of the river is called Puxi (west of Pu) and it is the more historic side of town. The other side, Pudong (east of Pu) has been newly developed with many high rises and a big park called Century Park. Nanjing Road is the main road on the Puxi side with loads of hotels, restaurants, shopping. We live in the Changning disctrict, bordering the Xuhui district. Our compound is marked with the red arrow. You can zoom in and out to see how where we are located in the city. Pretty fancy, isn’t it?!